Behavioral Euthanasia

“I FEEL GUILTY FOR WANTING TO PUT MY AGGRESSIVE DOG DOWN”

This is a phrase I’ve heard many dog owners say before. Behavioral euthanasia is a tough subject—one that’s rarely discussed openly—but it’s an important conversation to have. It’s a reality I’ve faced with clients, fellow trainers, and friends. If you’re reading this, you’re likely grappling with the possibility right now. That’s why I want to address this head-on: because it shouldn’t be as taboo as it is. Trainers know that, in some cases, behavioral euthanasia is the most humane option. Severe aggression isn’t often something that can be fixed, and sometimes, despite every effort, euthanasia becomes the safest and kindest choice.

Living with an aggressive dog is incredibly hard. Unless you’ve experienced it, it’s difficult to understand the relentless stress of being constantly on edge, always hyper-vigilant to prevent an attack on a person or a dog fight. Maybe you can no longer have people over. Maybe your dog can’t go on walks anymore because it’s not safe. Maybe you have problems with neighbors now because of your dog. Maybe you just live in constant fear of your dog attacking your other dog, biting you, going over the fence and attacking your neighbor or their dogs…

Training can usually help—but it may not be financially viable. When all avenues have been exhausted (professional training, vet consult, etc) euthanasia may be the only answer. It’s a choice that’s agonized over, questioned, and revisited countless times. There’s guilt, self-doubt, and wondering if things could’ve been different. Yet, I’ve seen time and again that this decision, as heartbreaking as it is, often brings relief—the unbearable weight finally lifts, and the constant fear and stress is gone.

WHAT MADE MY DOG THIS WAY?

People always wonder why their dog is aggressive, so let’s talk about a few of the reasons a dog may become aggressive:

  • genetics: dogs are genetically wired and bred for specific things. Some dogs are bred to fight other animals, guard things or people, or be territorial and defensive and quick to use their teeth to deal with a threat. These breeds are often pit bulls, mastiffs, German shepherds, cattle dogs, Rottweilers, and Belgian malinois. There’s a lot of really bad breeding out there, and some dogs are just wired a bit differently and are very quick to aggression.

  • lack of outlets: these same dogs that are bred to enjoy biting and fighting need a good outlet or that frustration will leak into other things and become problematic. This is why it’s really important to understand your dog’s breeds and genetics. Don’t get a working line German shepherd and expect them to be an easy dog who wants to lie around all day. Most pets really don’t get enough exercise, play, or fulfillment - and that will absolutely lead to problems.

  • lack of boundaries, rules, and structure: dogs need to understand the rules and expectations. They need to understand that certain behaviors have consequences. So many behavior problems stem from positive-only training where the owner tries to be kind by never telling the dog ‘no’ and constantly redirecting with food, but it actually makes everything so much worse.

  • inadequate socialization: very few people socialize puppies well. This needs to be done before 12 weeks when the brain is most plastic and malleable, and most puppy owners wait until 16 weeks to 6 months to even start. This is really problematic because the majority of aggression is avoidance-based and caused by poor early socialization, which makes them suspicious and fearful later on. Puppies need to be around people and other dogs early and often.

    So when you combine these and have, say, an unsocialized cattle dog who’s genetically wired to be suspicious, pushy, and bitey, they go through life never having rules or consequences, and they never get to play, be off leash, or scratch that genetic itch… of course there will be problems.

Questions I Would Ask:

  • Has training been seriously tried with a good trainer? Board and train for months with a solid trainer who knows how to work with aggression?

    • if no, start there if you can financially swing it

    • if yes, what did the trainer do? Did they only use food? How long was the board and train? Did they give outlets for your dog (play and walks and time off leash) or was it all suppression?

  • Can the dog safely stay in your home?

    • if yes, then you have time to review other options, like training

    • if no, and the dog can’t go anywhere else, euthanasia may be your only option

  • Can the dog safely and ethically be rehomed without putting others at risk?

    • if yes, try to find a home for them

  • Can the dog be returned to the breeder or rescue it came from?

    • if yes, and they are willing to train the dog, let it go back

  • Are there kids in the home?

    • even if the dog is safe with the kids, children leave doors and gates open and have friends over. Children and aggressive dogs should not live together.

  • Has a medical issue been thoroughly ruled out?

    • if no, why not?

  • Has the dog actually hurt a person or dog?

    • if no, then I would not recommend euthanasia for a problem that training can likely resolve

HAVE YOU WORKED WITH A TRAINER?

A good trainer? Not a positive-only trainer or a behaviorist who will try to stop aggression with treats. Work with a good, ethical, fair trainer who will teach your dog boundaries, teach you how to provide appropriate outlets for your dog, and teach your dog that aggressive behavior will not be tolerated.

That should be tried before euthanasia. Give your dog a chance to learn another way of doing things.

Now, that said, I do understand that an extensive board and train with a good trainer will run into the thousands of dollars. And it’s worth it, but if you don’t have it, you don’t have it. Not everyone can afford that, but if you can try to make it work - I would.

FINDING A GOOD TRAINER

This is tricky, because there are a lot of mediocre or just plain bad trainers out there who will happily take your money and make little or no progress with your dog. A good trainer is one with experience successfully rehabilitating aggressive dogs for the long term, not just suppressing behavior in the moment. This will likely be in a board and train of at least 6 weeks where they can work with your dog in depth every day to not just stop the aggression but really change the way they feel. A trainer saying they can fix it in a few weeks is a huge red flag.

I would recommend checking out TWC for a good trainer near you. I also have a short list of trainers who are not TWC that I recommend and can share if you message me.

YOU CAN’T DO TRAINING, NOW WHAT?

If you can’t swing the financials of training, or now you have kids and can’t ever trust the dog around them, what other options do you have?

RETURN THE DOG

A good breeder will always take their dogs back for any reason, any time. A good rescue will do the same. I would at least reach out and make them aware of the situation before euthanasia.

REHOME THE DOG

Sometimes this is reasonable, often it’s not. If two dogs are fighting but the dogs do fine with other dogs, it's reasonable to find a new home for one. Or if there’s a dog who aggressively guards against the children but not the adults, it may be reasonable to place the dog in a home without kids.

But more often than not, it's not reasonable.  Let's look at the case of the pit bull I worked with who busted through a new wood privacy fence to kill the neighbor’s dog. Where can this dog safely go? He already lived in a home without other dogs, and he still found a way to kill one. Other dogs exist in the world, and he would go to incredible lengths to kill them. He would need to be muzzled and leashed any time he was outside - even in his own fenced yard. If he ever slipped out the front door or bolted out of the car, another dog could die. The only person who would want this dog is someone who would use him for fighting. The average person doesn’t want to adopt a dog that will kill another dog without thousands of dollars in training and lifelong management.

I consulted with an owner of a giant breed dog who had severely mauled a person and had a history of attacking the other dog in the home. Who wants a dog over 120 pounds who quite literally tried to kill someone? This dog could never safely be around people or dogs. To make matters worse, she regularly jumped the 6' fence and roamed around the neighborhood. She could not be contained and was a deadly serious threat to people and dogs. There is nowhere this dog could go, other than a roofed concrete kennel without human interaction, and what kind of life is that for a dog, especially one who couldn’t tolerate confinement? There is no reasonable person who wants a dog like that.

“NEEDS TO BE THE ONLY PET/NO KIDS”

Many people think a dog-aggressive dog just needs a home without dogs, or that a dog who is aggressive to people just needs a home where no one ever comes over. But remember, other dogs and other people exist in the world. People have neighbors and mailmen and delivery drivers. People have family and friends. There are utility workers or repairmen who may stop by.

If you walk your dog, they WILL encounter other dogs and people. Take your dog to the vet, same thing.

It only takes one mistake - one door left open, one gate left open, one moment of inattention on a walk.

“HE JUST NEEDS TO LIVE ON A FARM!”

Commonly, people assume farmers want aggressive dogs. They imagine their dog running freely through acres of lush rolling hills, frolicking through creeks, and living the dream. The problem is: farmers do not want aggressive dogs. Farmers are busy, hardworking people. They have lots of other animals and usually lots of people around. It's not a place for dangerous dogs. Farmers need dogs who are safe around their livestock and farm dogs and who won’t attack farm workers or family, friends, and guests. Virtually no one wants an aggressive dog, and even fewer are actually capable of safely managing them for life.

SURRENDER TO A RESCUE OR SHELTER

A row of dog runs in a shelter environment.

Many aggressive dogs are sent to rescues or shelters where they’ll spend their entire life in isolation, highly stressed and miserable.

So if they can't be rehomed and they can't be kept, then what? Do we send them somewhere they'll be isolated for the rest of their lives? A rescue, sanctuary, or shelter where they'll spend years in a kennel, alone, circling and pacing and barking while they lose their minds, never getting to run free and be a dog?

Is that humane and ethical?

I don't think it is. I would personally choose to give my dogs a good death before confining them for life.

And being fully transparent here, a good rescue is not going to take a dangerous dog, unless it’s just to euthanize them. However, a good rescue who works with good trainers may take dogs with reactivity or mild aggression cases that can rehabilitated and safely rehomed.

EUTHANASIA

A peaceful passing may be the best choice for a dog with no other options.

WHEN EUTHANASIA MAY BE APPROPRIATE FOR AGGRESSIVE DOGS:

To be clear, by ‘aggressive’ I mean a dog who has bitten a person and done damage and/or attacked and injured other dogs. I do not mean a dog fight where the other dog was not injured, a dog who simply growls or barks and lunges on leash, or a dog who has only growled, snapped, or bitten without injury.

  • Any deep punctures or bites to people that require stitches, especially if the dog is biting multiple times in rapid succession or biting and holding/thrashing

  • Any dog fights with injuries that require vet care

  • Any dog attacks where the dog is holding on or holding on and thrashing

  • When the dog is aggressive and escapes the yard or house

  • When there are kids in the home

  • When there is no clear trigger and the aggression is unpredictable

  • When the dog is displaying aggressive behavior toward family in the home

  • If another dog or person in the home is living in fear of the aggressive dog

  • When the dog cannot reasonably or safely be rehomed or returned to the breeder

A gold-colored fluffy, Australian shepherd mix dog lies in green grass with a tennis ball.

HOW DO YOU KNOW IT’S TIME TO EUTHANIZE?

This is hard. It is always hard. With medical euthanasia a lot of people will say, “You’ll know when it’s time.” I call bullshit on that one. I’ve said goodbye to a lot of dogs, and most of the time I don’t know. It never feels like the right time. With a dog who seems physically healthy, it’s even harder. It just feels so surreal to schedule your dog’s death, in any situation.

With Sam's medical euthanasia at age 13, he had been in pain for months. He could no longer do the things he loved. His quality of life had diminished a lot, but I kept going. He was still eating! I couldn't put him down if he had such a hearty appetite! He still got excited to see me! He was fine! I kept waiting and waiting for that last catastrophic push because what if today was a good day? What if he miraculously improved? How could I possibly say goodbye to my very best friend if he was getting better? He’s not THAT bad… So what if day by day he slowly declined?

But why wait until they’re suffering and miserable? Isn’t it better to let them go on a good day or a sort-of-good day? Leave on a good note without being debilitated by pain?

Sam’s vet explained that a catastrophic event for him would involve the most excruciating pain he’s ever experienced and possible paralysis when his disc ruptured. Did I want that for him? For his last moments to involve terror at being unable to move and agonizing pain? Did I want my last memory of him screaming and unable to walk? Did I want to have to rush him to the emergency vet because he needed put down NOW? No. I let him go on a “good” day. In my lap, in our home. And as hard as it is, that was right for him. You can choose that for your dog, too. You don’t need to wait for a catastrophic event.

FINDING A VET

Not every vet is willing to do a behavioral euthanasia. You may need to call around, and that’s okay. Vets get to decide whether to euthanize or not, but that doesn’t mean you’re making the wrong decision - it just means they’re not the right vet for that task. Personally, I’ve found most vets to be pretty supportive, and I was able to use an in-home vet who could come perform the euthanasia at my home so we could avoid a stressful vet visit.

Be honest with your vet about your dog’s aggression, especially if they’re aggressive toward strangers. You may want to ask your vet for a sedative you can give your dog prior to your appointment to help them relax. You should also be prepared to muzzle your dog for your vet’s safety (you can remove this after the vet has administered sedatives and your dog is safely asleep).

WHAT TO EXPECT

Some vets may do things slightly differently, but they should explain how the euthanasia will go beforehand. If they don’t, you can always ask if you want details. What it typically looks like is this:

a golden retriever sleeps deeply on a brightly colored blanket
  • The vet will administer a sedative via injection. Your dog will get drowsy within a few minutes and lay down and sleep very deeply. They won’t be aware of what’s happening and they aren’t feeling anything. For some dogs, especially highly anxious or aroused dogs, the sedation will take much longer.

  • Once your dog is sedated and sleeping, your vet will insert an IV line into your dog’s vein. They may shave a bit of fur and use a tourniquet to find a vein easier. Your dog is sedated and won’t be scared by this.

  • They’ll ask you if you’re ready for them to inject the euthanasia cocktail. If you say yes, they’ll slowly inject a lethal dose of anesthetic agents that will peacefully slow and then stop your dog’s heart. They won’t feel a thing, and it usually happens fairly quickly, in under a minute. I have never been able to tell when my dogs have actually passed.

  • Your vet will listen for a heartbeat with a stethoscope and let you know your dog has passed.

  • After your dog has passed, you can choose to bury or cremate your dog.

AFTER IT’S ALL OVER

After is hard. It always is.

It’ll feel surreal and empty and sad and weird and absolutely soul-crushing. For all euthanasias there’s a mixture of relief that it’s over, guilt over feeling relief, and so much sadness and loss. You might have periods of feeling numb or feeling like it’s not real — something this awful couldn’t have happened, my dog is just in the other room sleeping! It was all a crazy dream, and he’ll walk out any minute!

You may feel guilt at your decision to euthanize. You may wonder if you could have done something differently - started training sooner, raised them differently, tried harder. You might wrack your brain, frantic for a solution or a cause — a different outcome. The truth is, it probably wouldn’t matter. There will always be something new to try, and you can make yourself crazy wanting to do everything. You’ve tried and that’s enough. The end result would’ve been the same.

There may be judgement from others. You do NOT have to give details if you don’t want to. You can simply tell people your dog has passed. You can say it’s too hard to talk about or say it was a medical issue. Other people may not understand, and that can be really hard when you’re grieving.

A great support is the Facebook group Losing Lulu - a private support group for post-behavioral euthanasia support. It can help to read the stories of others and talk to other dog owners who understand.

But know this: you did the right thing. Your feelings are normal. All of them. It will be hard but you will be okay.

BEHAVIORAL EUTHANASIA CONSULT

Would you like support or clarity? Would it help to talk things over with a trainer?

During a judgement-free online consult, you can tell me all about your dog and what’s going on, we can talk things through, and discuss your options. I know it’s a hard place to be, and if you’d like help — I’m here.

SCHEDULE A CONSULT
Previous
Previous

If Your Dog Were A Toddler

Next
Next

Raising Two Puppies